Mmm. Han skulle aldrig lämnat sin surfing. Ännu mindre eftersom han led av psykisk ohälsa.
"When he was in the water, everybody was forgotten," Ms Watt, who stood by her son throughout his ordeals, said recently.
"His life was on the water. He could talk to the water and he knew every wave that was coming and which one to take. Nobody else mattered when he was on that water."
Although he had not surfed for more than 20 years, Peterson said in an interview for the book Bells, the beach, the contest, the surfers, that he still had dreams about surfing, including some about Bells Beach and Winki Pop. "I didn't mind the cold, (it was) good in the winter time," he said.
Read more:
www.smh.com.au/sport/heart-attack-claims-surfing-great-20120329-1vzxu.html#ixzz1qV7N64DT