surfermag.com/av/braboyss/
Like we always say..if ya wanna party ...ya have ta pay tha band baby..
I'll look thru my old photos and scan the one of me after I had surfed a secret place off sydney like the place in the film (not the same spot)
I took off on a wave just like the one the guys face got mashed on... ONLY A LEFT ..I made the drop..pulled into a gigantic tube and stood hands up..THEN ..the wave decided to just fold down on me..crushed me like a doll pressed me THROUGH my surfboard..slammed me onto the reef then picked me up..pulled me over the falls again and slammed me down again pinning me on my back to the reef...THEN ..the front end of my board came over the falls after me and the wave drove the nose of my board into the underneath of my jawbone..the tip of the nose of by board broke off about 2cms and then after jumping off my jawbone the nose of my board drove into my cheek and underneath my cheekbone and broke off with about 2ms of fibreglass stuck into at ut of my face...IT HURT... We were on a boat about 1hrs really rough boat ride from land and another hour from the hospital...I got 12 stitches on the outside of my cheek and 12 stitches on the inside..yes the board went right thru my cheek..6 months later I got this big fuckin' pimple on my cheek and then a 1cm long peice of fibreglass popped out.....I'll take a photo of my cheek now and get the photo of when I had come home from the hospital...
Oh yeah, I bounced off the bottom in '97 as well but that time I broke my back..!!!!! Couldn't stand at all for 6 weeks..6 months rehabilitation...2 years to what they call 'full recovery'???That slowed me down a fair bit....NOT BULLSHIT...ALL TRUE...
