I'm a surfer..

I get up before everyone else and I'm nearly always first out... pulling in, taking the wipepouts on the biggest waves, enjoying the whole scene unfolding before my adrenaline pumped eyeballs and I'm the last one to hit the shoreline at the end of a looong surf..

I'm the one who takes risks, paddles harder when the chances are I'm gunna eat shit and hit the reef HARD...but...sometimes, NO actually, often..because I'm committed...I make it... and get the tube of the
day.
If I eat it, I come up laughing..'cause someone has to pay the band..don't they?! When my friends eat it I laugh my guts out, and so do they..It's funny isn't it..getting worked in front of your mates..

I have ridden 10 foot balsa boards with skegs, single fins, twin fins, bought one of the first Simon Anderson thrusters, and loved it, watched the evolution of the thruster and the reintroduction of the
malibu by Nat in '86 and then back to the alternate retro times and loved it all and lived it all fairly quietly,
all the while seeking out places no-one had surfed and holding it quiet as long as we could before someone else exposed it and wrecked it.

I'm first to the party ......and last to leave after helping to clean up the mess i made during the mayhem!

I'm one of the people in touch with nature, taking nothing, just enjoying, expecting nothing,
leaving nothing, just memories in the broken spray of carved up waves, .

I'm an earth man, an ocean man, a tribesman, as one with all these things..

I am an explorer, forging the path....but not giving away too much..heading off to new places..walking around headlands, climbing that extra last hill...searching past that extra last corner..forever searching
for the new and untouched..searching for that wave that no-one as ever surfed before..naming them,
and hoping that when I die people will still be calling it that name.

I climbed onto planes, 18 years old, alone !!! Went to places no other surfer had thought to go to,
screamed at the tuk tuk driver and the beamo driver to GO FASTER as they roared through the city
smog and traffic with me in the back laughing my guts out and still urging them on.
I caught the longtail boats and got stranded at sea in huge swell on boats that filled with water and
that came in faster than we could throw it out with broken buckets.

Through all of that and the many missions on roads and highways through all those countries I was ALWAYS only after ONE thing...surf

I AM A SURFER...what am I ?