I get up before everyone else and I'm nearly always first out... pulling in, taking the wipepouts on the biggest waves, enjoying the whole scene unfolding before my adrenaline pumped eyeballs and I'm the last one to hit the shoreline at the end of a looong surf..
I'm the one who takes risks, paddles harder when the chances are I'm gunna eat shit and hit the reef HARD...but...sometimes, NO actually, often..because I'm committed...I make it... and get the tube of the
day.
If I eat it, I come up laughing..'cause someone has to pay the band..don't they?! When my friends eat it I laugh my guts out, and so do they..It's funny isn't it..getting worked in front of your mates..
I have ridden 10 foot balsa boards with skegs, single fins, twin fins, bought one of the first Simon Anderson thrusters, and loved it, watched the evolution of the thruster and the reintroduction of the
malibu by Nat in '86 and then back to the alternate retro times and loved it all and lived it all fairly quietly,
all the while seeking out places no-one had surfed and holding it quiet as long as we could before someone else exposed it and wrecked it.
I'm first to the party ......and last to leave after helping to clean up the mess i made during the mayhem!
I'm one of the people in touch with nature, taking nothing, just enjoying, expecting nothing,
leaving nothing, just memories in the broken spray of carved up waves, .
I'm an earth man, an ocean man, a tribesman, as one with all these things..
I am an explorer, forging the path....but not giving away too much..heading off to new places..walking around headlands, climbing that extra last hill...searching past that extra last corner..forever searching
for the new and untouched..searching for that wave that no-one as ever surfed before..naming them,
and hoping that when I die people will still be calling it that name.
I climbed onto planes, 18 years old, alone !!! Went to places no other surfer had thought to go to,
screamed at the tuk tuk driver and the beamo driver to GO FASTER as they roared through the city
smog and traffic with me in the back laughing my guts out and still urging them on.
I caught the longtail boats and got stranded at sea in huge swell on boats that filled with water and
that came in faster than we could throw it out with broken buckets.
Through all of that and the many missions on roads and highways through all those countries I was ALWAYS only after ONE thing...surf
I get up before everyone else and I'm nearly always first out... pulling in, taking the wipepouts on the biggest waves, enjoying the whole scene unfolding before my adrenaline pumped eyeballs and I'm the last one to hit the shoreline at the end of a looong surf..
I'm the one who takes risks, paddles harder when the chances are I'm gunna eat shit and hit the reef HARD...but...sometimes, NO actually, often..because I'm committed...I make it... and get the tube of the
day.
If I eat it, I come up laughing..'cause someone has to pay the band..don't they?! When my friends eat it I laugh my guts out, and so do they..It's funny isn't it..getting worked in front of your mates..
I have ridden 10 foot balsa boards with skegs, single fins, twin fins, bought one of the first Simon Anderson thrusters, and loved it, watched the evolution of the thruster and the reintroduction of the
malibu by Nat in '86 and then back to the alternate retro times and loved it all and lived it all fairly quietly,
all the while seeking out places no-one had surfed and holding it quiet as long as we could before someone else exposed it and wrecked it.
I'm first to the party ......and last to leave after helping to clean up the mess i made during the mayhem!
I'm one of the people in touch with nature, taking nothing, just enjoying, expecting nothing,
leaving nothing, just memories in the broken spray of carved up waves, .
I'm an earth man, an ocean man, a tribesman, as one with all these things..
I am an explorer, forging the path....but not giving away too much..heading off to new places..walking around headlands, climbing that extra last hill...searching past that extra last corner..forever searching
for the new and untouched..searching for that wave that no-one as ever surfed before..naming them,
and hoping that when I die people will still be calling it that name.
I climbed onto planes, 18 years old, alone !!! Went to places no other surfer had thought to go to,
screamed at the tuk tuk driver and the beamo driver to GO FASTER as they roared through the city
smog and traffic with me in the back laughing my guts out and still urging them on.
I caught the longtail boats and got stranded at sea in huge swell on boats that filled with water and
that came in faster than we could throw it out with broken buckets.
Through all of that and the many missions on roads and highways through all those countries I was ALWAYS only after ONE thing...surf
I AM A SURFER...what am I ?
Oh yeah..I've broken my back, broken my leg, stabbed my face and split my cheekbone, split my left hand wide open to the bone, split my left shin open to the bone, nearly lost an eye..ripped the skin off my belly till it was blistering sores from board rash and then put a t-shirt on and paddled out in agony.....broken untold amounts of surfboards and made them, joined them back together,,and repaired thousands of them..all in the name of surf....
I am a surfer..what am I?
I get up before everyone else and I'm nearly always first out... pulling in, taking the wipepouts on the biggest waves, enjoying the whole scene unfolding before my adrenaline pumped eyeballs and I'm the last one to hit the shoreline at the end of a looong surf..
I'm the one who takes risks, paddles harder when the chances are I'm gunna eat shit and hit the reef HARD...but...sometimes, NO actually, often..because I'm committed...I make it... and get the tube of the
day.
If I eat it, I come up laughing..'cause someone has to pay the band..don't they?! When my friends eat it I laugh my guts out, and so do they..It's funny isn't it..getting worked in front of your mates..
I have ridden 10 foot balsa boards with skegs, single fins, twin fins, bought one of the first Simon Anderson thrusters, and loved it, watched the evolution of the thruster and the reintroduction of the
malibu by Nat in '86 and then back to the alternate retro times and loved it all and lived it all fairly quietly,
all the while seeking out places no-one had surfed and holding it quiet as long as we could before someone else exposed it and wrecked it.
I'm first to the party ......and last to leave after helping to clean up the mess i made during the mayhem!
I'm one of the people in touch with nature, taking nothing, just enjoying, expecting nothing,
leaving nothing, just memories in the broken spray of carved up waves, .
I'm an earth man, an ocean man, a tribesman, as one with all these things..
I am an explorer, forging the path....but not giving away too much..heading off to new places..walking around headlands, climbing that extra last hill...searching past that extra last corner..forever searching
for the new and untouched..searching for that wave that no-one as ever surfed before..naming them,
and hoping that when I die people will still be calling it that name.
I climbed onto planes, 18 years old, alone !!! Went to places no other surfer had thought to go to,
screamed at the tuk tuk driver and the beamo driver to GO FASTER as they roared through the city
smog and traffic with me in the back laughing my guts out and still urging them on.
I caught the longtail boats and got stranded at sea in huge swell on boats that filled with water and
that came in faster than we could throw it out with broken buckets.
Through all of that and the many missions on roads and highways through all those countries I was ALWAYS only after ONE thing...surf
I AM A SURFER...what am I ?
Oh yeah..I've broken my back, broken my leg, stabbed my face and split my cheekbone, split my left hand wide open to the bone, split my left shin open to the bone, nearly lost an eye..ripped the skin off my belly till it was blistering sores from board rash and then put a t-shirt on and paddled out in agony.....broken untold amounts of surfboards and made them, joined them back together,,and repaired thousands of them..all in the name of surf....
I am a surfer..what am I?
You are a BOS!
What we need is music to your lyrics! Take this song and change some words! Perfect melody to make it mighty..
I was a surferdude... many waves I did ride.... But I am still alive..... I was a surfer.... I surfed along the whole of Mexico.... And when the swell was big they said that I was killed.... But I am living still! crossed the world... A place to rest my spirit if I can.. perhaps I become a surfer again... I am still around....
No denying that's where I got my inspiration..I just added my bits..the whole story fit me nearly perfectly..i was just a little different ..I got inspired after it and wrote even more but didn't put it in surfsverige for fear of being arrested afterwards..hahahahah:P
I wake up around 9 and go see the waves
Three feet and under is just my game
Usually I don't paddle out on very big days
'cos i'm scared to drown. that shit is not ok
I'm the first one in the party if i get invited
but i'm the first one to leave. don't get exited.
I show up again in the morning to clean up everyone elses garbage
yeah that's fine with me to glean their garbage
Sometimes i travel too but never alone
I've got my mom, dad and 2 sisters with me
that way i feel like home
Once i was in a taxi and it was going really fast
i had to say to the driver "could you ease it with the gas"
"i'm still intimidated by a near death experience i had when i was a kid"
"So please mr driver could you slow down a bit"
But I really like to surf that thing is so fun and gr8
i ride my 9'2 longboard on glassy summer days
usually i knee board the waves cos i have a hard time standing up straight
I'm not the best one out there but i DO IT MY WAY!
It's a great mag and Im happy you put your own part in here! Mine's a bit shorter due to time crisis.
I'm a surfer,
I drive five hours to surf
to get man-handled and shown up
I started when I was young, I'll quit when Im old
It keeps me on my toes, lurking in my soul
Jo, det har varit lite mycket på sistone nu, Oldschool och Adamski tjatar hela tiden om stöd borta i söderhavet och orienten... de tar tid.. sen håller jag på att elda en hel del bröte utanför husvagnen så här års.
Det rök som faaaaaan när jag elda, jag hörde brandkåren, det såg väl ut som det var skogsbrand, då kröp jag ner i husvagnen och täckte taket ( som är i jämnhöjd med marken) med kvistar och blad och barr och satt där inne o skakade av vånda och skräck, men sen drog signalerna förbi... efter det har jag bara eldat försiktigt, jag slänger inte på några traktordäck längre o häller inte på bensin heller...
I am a firestarter
burning shit every spring
get my own fire started when looking at ladies string
burning leafs burning wood
did you understood?
I am a firestarter, what am I?
... I've got nothing against stoke but man you're pushing it hehe.
Totålockomoppåidioåto.
Kanske det språk vi alla pratar om 20 år:sick: 
