Att strukuera mp3:or

svtplay.se/v/1441862/popcirkus/alejandro_fuentes_bergstrom_-_strukturera_mp3_or

Willy skrev:
Att strukuera mp3:or

svtplay.se/v/1441862/popcirkus/alejandro_fuentes_bergstrom_-_strukturera_mp3_or

Det där ordet jag försöker skriva är "strukturera".

Om ni har tråkigt kan ni göra lite eggshape och sedan fota det och lägga upp det på tråden "Protein till surfmuskler".

Saxat från nätet:

Niceness: Could you describe the long Desert Point barrel?
Lewis: Yeah, sure. But I should point out that you're only asking that question cause we talked about it another time. It's not like I got some legendary barrel at Desert's that everyone talks about. That spot is crowded and fickle and dangerous but you can get some of the longest barrels there. It's a strange wave, cause it starts out kinda mellow, and then just gets hollower and faster and bigger as you go. They call the last section the Grower, cause it keeps growing. It's not a perfect wave, either. It throws big mean unpredictable sections that look totally unmakeable. But if you pull into them, sometimes you can make them.

I got this one really memorable wave there, last season. It was right on dark and I had gone back out to get a good one. So I was just waiting and waiting for the right one. My friends were all sitting on the beach drinking beers; these Aussie guys I was travelling with who were really good surfers. So finally this sick one comes and I'm in the right spot and I go. I pulled in almost immediately, and got a nice long pit, dragging my arm to slow down, just standing right in the eye of it through the easy section. Then it hit the first heavy section of reef, and I had to pull in without ever making it completely out of the first tube. So I didn't get that little burst of speed; I was too far back. It pitched this huge section and it looked like a closeout tube. I couldn't see the exit anymore; I was way behind the bend in the barrel, nothing to see but water and lip. I could see foam ahead of me, and that's a bad sign. But I kept with it and went high and it was big enough in there to pump a little bit and get speed. After a few seconds I could see an exit up ahead. I remember thinking, "I might make this one how cool would that be?" But right as I got to the exit, before I could make it out, another huge section heaved. Same deal - no chance to pump into it, no exit in sight, foam up ahead. I was way behind the bend. But as the wave went down the reef it started getting bigger and hollower, and I suddenly had enough room to pump and get some speed. And I could see that exit up ahead again. I could see a little bit of the hills and sky. I remember realizing I needed to breathe, cause I had been holding my breath so long, and I took this long sucking breath. I began thinking, "Damn, if I make this it will easily be my longest pit of my trip." But right as I get to the exit, same fucking story. This evil, evil section shuts down on me and I'm hopelessly deep in the tube. Thinking, "Fucker! I could of made it, so close" But I had written myself off twice already, and made the sections, so I just held on. It got tighter and tighter in there, and my fins started to drift down onto the foamball. When that happens, you're usually done. Your fins cavitate in the foam and you spin out and get clipped. So my fins started to spin out. I lost all drive, just stopped. And like in slow-motion, right as that happened, the wave just spit the full fire hose spit. It stung my face and I couldn't see anything in the mist. But I guess it spit so hard that it pushed me up off the foamball, right as the wave opened up wide again. My vision cleared and I was way up high, almost in the lip, but my fins bit in and I pumped low and then high again and got this huge burst of speed and suddenly I was in the sweet spot again, just flying, exit up ahead. Not thinking anything at this point, just reacting. The tube getting bigger and wider, I was standing straight up in it. Two more times, right as I was about to exit the tube and kick out and seal the deal, another section heaved. Not as sketchy as those other times, but sketchy. I just stayed with it and stayed with it and finally it let me out clean. I kicked out and just kind of sat there for a minute, tripping. So far down the reef that I couldn't see the top of the point or any other surfers. I went in and walked up the beach as darkness fell. I got back to my friends and they didn't say a word to me. I didn't say anything either. What was there to say? We drove off and about an hour later, my friend Gonz turned to me and muttered real quiet, almost sadly, "Fuck mate. That might've been the best barrel I've ever seen."

This guy Camel, who is a really fucking good tube rider, got one that night that went all the way through, even farther than mine. He swore adamantly that he was in there for over 60 seconds before coming out. That sounds totally absurd, but I timed a wave on video that my friend rode the next day, not getting shacked, just connecting the point, and it was 64 seconds or something. It's pretty much unthinkable, you know? Honestly, 3 seconds is a really long tube, even for good surfers. 7 second tubes are crazy. 10 seconds, insane. 20 seconds, very few spots in the world can you even conceive of that. I don't know how long mine was. But I believe Camel about his 60 second tube, and that's absolutely inconceivable. You might need years of therapy after that.

Resten av intervjun som jag postade lite av här igår.

www.niceness.org/surf/interviews/lewis.html

Killen är skaparen av postsurf.com (som sharkboy tipsade om)

En underhållande blog om surfvärlden, underhållande så länge man själv inte blir utpekad förstås...

Lär dig cykla på staket.

www.blabbermouth.net/yngwie_tokyo_flight.mp3

"You've unleashed the fucking fury!"

Willy skrev:
Resten av intervjun som jag postade lite av här igår.

www.niceness.org/surf/interviews/lewis.html

Killen är skaparen av postsurf.com (som sharkboy tipsade om)

En underhållande blog om surfvärlden, underhållande så länge man själv inte blir utpekad förstås...

Otroligt intressant intervju, så mycket kloka ord i en intervju. Otroligt.

"Lewis: Well I'd love to tell you that I'm inspired by the local scene, or that we have this great community of local surfers, but we're not really there yet. In general, I'm fascinated by the subcultures and communities and social groups that evolve around shared activities. I studied cognitive anthropology at one point, and I still do some cognitive ethnography research as part of my current fucked office job. So I can take a step back and watch the different personas interact, these different character-types we have in the water how they co-exist can be pretty interesting. But sometimes I see how people interact in the water and the parking lot and it pretty much breaks my heart. Cause we're so fucking lucky to be doing this activity, and at the end of years of doing it, the friends you make are one of the only thing you get to take away. It's an ephemeral act. The waves disappear, your best rides fade in memory, even your skills degrade with time if you surf into old age. The only thing that actually can build and really flourish is that sense of belonging, that feeling that you belong in the ocean and you belong to a community, that you have these life-long friends that you've gone through everything with.

I wish people realized that a bit more. You can give away a wave to someone in one session, and yeah, you'll never get that particular 3 foot mushburger back. You gave it away forever. But you probably never would've remembered it 10 minutes later, anyway. And if you give a few waves away every session, and treat others with respect, it comes back to you. It sounds lame, but I guess I'd like to see a little more empathy all around. Just think about other surfer's experience, when you share space with them, you know? I'd like to see dickhead locals cutting beginners some slack, and I'd also like to see those beginners respecting more experienced surfers by not surfing the same peaks. Find somewhere away from everyone else. That would make a huge difference."

Och en del komiska prylar. Sånt man förmodligen aldrig glömmer från en bra surfresa.

"Another highlight was when this Aussie guy woke us all up in the middle of the night. They turn the generator off, and it's just pitch black. Really still and quiet, just jungle sounds. All of a sudden we got woken up by this true-blue Aussie yobbo who was just screaming like a little girl. I think he was eating some cookies before bed or something, and he left some crumbs on his chest. He woke up in the middle of the night with this huge rat chewing on his chest hair. Like a Chihuahua-sized rat. He was screaming "Fucking-A mate! It's crawling all over me! It's on me mate, it's right on me! Fuck! Fuck! It's not worth it mate, it's just not worth it!" It was pretty hilarious. After that, every time something went wrong on the trip, like lunch was late or we missed a wave, we'd turn to each other and do our best Aussie accent and scream "It's not worth it mate, it's not bloody worth it!"

mmmmm...


www.youtube.com/user/highlitevp#play/all/favorites-all/0/7BOhDaJH0m4