Touche Willy!
But, life is full of irony and contradiction. (and trite introductions) I don't want to bruise mother nature either but, fuck... accepting life in Babylon makes for a whopping chore. I mean, I'd love to go 100% solar or geo heating at my house but... have you seen how much that shit costs? (mark my words: IT WILL HAPPEN! And should I give my wife heat every time she lets the hot water run when its her turn to wash up? Okay yes, even though we usually only scrap with each other when there is crap on supposedly clean dishes. I added the link to Mollusk as an empathetic gesture towards romantics who allow themselves to be seduced by the aura of retro boards. Some of them even take the time to shape their own...like Erik G or this German dude I met in Klitmøller who made a wooden 5 foot something beauty - no kit!. Respect. Anyways, even though I pity their board choice, sick surfing did occur on retro boards back when retro boards were modern and even... futuristic. Check out the quads shaped in the Michael Junod shaper video or Larry Bertelman's 360's. Yaddda, yadda, yadda- I wanna see that kind of surfing by all the retro riders today as much as I hope to figure out how the fuck to ride my latest, greatest, half a kilo, durable material thruster. And as for grainy footage of guys longboarding Rincon during the winter, without legropes, in boardshorts - that's just ... sick surfing! I ain't buying the nostalgia, just admiring what it is. Turn the music off while watching at first and just admire the surfing for what it is, humans riding waves. Then tune in again with the "aura" on. See?
Am I pschizo or just human? History is history. I'm not a hater - just wish that the flow of newbies would be quelled by minimizing exposure to things like "lifestyle" "aura" "mystique" and "fashion" that businesses market. Surf music, art and travel will always be a part of the sport's heritage. Cool. Pick up a guitar, go to the show, hit the road, paint away, spin some pottery. Unfortunately, business often bundles, mangles and markets it all. Not so cool. People played music before the beach boys and Pennywise and hit the road before surf camps and all that. As far as I can see, it's the business dudes who want to grow the sport's influence over the purchasing decisions of people, not so much it's practitioners: riders, artists, musicians and travellers. Businesses will come and go, but good surfing - preserved in whatever format - will always be around. I'm stoked Mollusk made it easy for me to watch the stuff in a nice format but will I cry if they cannot survive as a shop? Uh, no. They'll still be surfers and so will you and me and we'll all be surfing come the next swell. And the footage will just be complied somewhere else in cyberspace. And if it weren't? We'd still have story
Also, Mollusk, the shop/ website -and what it represents- has been mocked pretty extensively by some in San Francisco and in the US, but I gotta hand to them for being true to their niche and giving us casual browsers a really good historical library at our fingertips. Still not off the hook for what and how they "sell" though. Talk about marketing lifestyle! Blacgh! Shameless.
Two pretty funny stories by Lewis Samuels (former Surfline 'Power Rankings' writer)can be found here tangential to Mollusk and/ retro:
www.surfline.com/surfnews/article_bamp_400_v03.cfm?id=17437
postsurf.com/2009/02/08/making-friends/
Postsurf is a pretty crazy place actually - check out this article from San Francisco newspaper that is related to elsewhere in PS by Lewis Samuels:
www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/05/06/BAA717FRCT.DTL
postsurf.com/2009/05/10/comment-of-the-week-death-to-surfers-update/
Okay that's it for me. No more bullshitting away on Surfsverige for a while. See you in the lineup
