Andiss skrev:
ha ha, just beacuse youre paddling close to big surf doesnt mean you surfed it....
hahahaha andiss:P
..'
there were 5 guys out..me, a brazilian guy, jim banks and 2 others i didn't talk 2..it was horrifying..no breaks in the sets..the waves just kept coming one after the other..we got out when it was about 8-10 ft and then it just got bigger and bigger and bigger..i was actually frightened..i caught about 15 waves like 300m-400m long in 4 hrs..paddling aaall the time..it was fuckin huge and the take offs were really scary..like jumping of a 4-5 story building and sucky as hell..every take off was a freefall 2m...once you got on em though it was so fucken great..HUMUNGUS tubes..got one that you could drive a double decker bus through..full speed..what an adrenilin rush..had to dive under 4 waves..NOT FUN..did 8...yes 8 cartwheels in a row on one spoolning..fully stretched out...
1.........2......3.....4......5.....6....7.....8..and then smashed...the brazilian guy took 5 big ones one the head and then his leash snapped and then i don't know if he lived or died..serious..it was death stuff with 18ft waves barreling thru between a barrage of 14-16ft in between....
